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A getaway in Auvergne: From Néris-Les-Bains to the Puy de Dôme

Discovering Auvergne!

Ça faisait déjà un moment que cette région française me donnait envie, avec ses volcans majestueux et ses grands espaces verts. J’ai posé mes valises au Noemys Néris-les-Bains, un hôtel plein de charme qui allie confort et authenticité.

Between picturesque walks, cultural visits and unforgettable hikes, I’ll take you with me to discover this enchanting corner of Auvergne.

1. Arrival in Néris-les-Bains, the spa town

From the moment I arrived, I was charmed by the Belle Époque architecture, the iconic thermal baths, and the soothing atmosphere of Néris-les-Bains, which has preserved all the charm of its Gallo-Roman origins. From my very first steps, I felt a calming ambiance, as if time had slowed down to allow me to better appreciate what the town has to offer.

Noemys Néris

I was charmed by the warm welcome from the staff and by my cozy, bright room, which offered a breathtaking view of the Casino and the theater in this lovely spa town. An ideal place to recharge and fully enjoy the unique atmosphere of Néris-les-Bains.

Découverte des Thermes : Les Nériades

After a day of sightseeing, I treated myself to a thermal bath that plunged me into a state of absolute relaxation. I started with a visit to the famous Les Nériades thermal baths, located in the heart of the city, with 1,000 square meters dedicated to well-being. On my way there, I passed strollers, all looking relaxed, proof that this place is a true invitation to unwind. After picking up a towel at the entrance and changing into my swimsuit in the changing rooms, I immersed myself in the indoor and outdoor pools, where the water, naturally rich in lithium and magnesium, is known for its therapeutic benefits. Between the sauna, the hammam, and the herbal tea room, I allowed myself a well-deserved break to release the accumulated stress.

Un bond dans le passé au cœur de Néris-les-Bains

Néris-les-Bains, formerly called Nerimagos in homage to Nerios, the god of springs, offers a fascinating journey into the past. The Gallo-Roman amphitheater still stands proudly, a reminder of the town’s historical importance. Further on, the Church of Saint George and the Merovingian and Carolingian necropolis add a touch of sacred history to my stroll.

L’église Saint-Georges en particulier avec son architecture romane et ses détails sculptés m’ont captivée, me donnant l’impression de remonter le temps.

As evening fell, I was surprised to see steam rising from the sewer grates, a striking sight reminiscent of the underground hot springs. The city’s charm worked its magic immediately, with its incredible and soothing calm.

Les Nériades

2. Between nature and heritage, from Néris-les-Bains to Montluçon

The green way

Just a short drive away, the charming villages around Néris-les-Bains offer picturesque getaways perfect for heritage lovers.

For this second day, I decided to venture onto the greenway that follows a former railway line. It’s a cycle path of nearly 6 km connecting Néris-les-Bains to Montluçon. Following the route of the old railway, the almost flat itinerary is ideal for a bike ride or a leisurely hike. The ride is punctuated by verdant landscapes and small streams, offering a breath of fresh air in the heart of nature.

The path is quiet, far from the noise of cars, and the advantage of being in Autumn gives me the pleasure of listening to the crunch of leaves under my feet.

Montluçon, The Medieval

Arriving in Montluçon, my appetite whetted, I decided to find a small restaurant to savor a delicious Auvergne potato pie, a must-try local specialty. Strolling through the streets, I was charmed by the half-timbered houses that bear witness to the city’s rich medieval past. The cobbled lanes, lined with small shops selling local crafts, offer a picturesque and welcoming atmosphere. It’s the perfect place to discover regional expertise while immersing myself in the authentic ambiance of this historic city.

Immerse yourself in the local heritage of Néris-les-Bains: The Casino and the theatre

Back in Néris-les-Bains, I decided to treat myself to a more cultural interlude by visiting the Casino, a magnificent building dating from the Belle Époque. The refined interior and gilding are reminiscent of the time when the town was a haven for the French elite seeking thermal spa treatments. Right next door, the theater boasts sumptuous architecture with its neoclassical decor, a place worth visiting even when there are no performances for its unique atmosphere.

3. Short road trip to the surrounding villages

The following morning, after having a hearty breakfast at Noemys Néris, I get ready for a day of exploring the surrounding area.

To begin this getaway, I set off towards Hérisson, a charming medieval town. Along the way, I take the time to admire the soothing landscapes of the Auvergne. Verdant meadows stretch as far as the eye can see, dotted with peaceful grazing cows. This simple yet incredibly calming sight is one of my favorites, and it already immerses me in a sense of serenity before I even reach my first stop.

Les vaches d'Auvergne

First stop: The medieval village of Hérisson

Hérisson, a true medieval gem labeled “Petite Cité de Caractère”, is located just 30 minutes from my hotel.

From the moment I arrived, I was charmed by this picturesque village, marked by the impressive remains of its ancient castle, a silent witness to the many conflicts that have spanned the centuries since the Hundred Years’ War.

After taking the time to photograph the Aumance River, with its soothing reflections, I strolled through the village, wandering along the cobbled streets. I passed under the legendary Porte de la Varenne, nicknamed the “Gate of Hell.” A local anecdote recounts that a statue of the Virgin Mary was placed here to protect the village from the evil eye, which certainly piqued my curiosity.

I continued my exploration, walking up the narrow streets towards the Church of Notre-Dame, a remarkable neo-Gothic building with its horseshoe-shaped staircase. Finally, I reached the ruins of the castle, from where there is a breathtaking view of the village and its surroundings. A true immersion in the past, enhanced by the smiles of the locals who gather in the small cafés to share convivial moments.

A peaceful break at the Saint-Bonnet-Tronçais pond

Next, I set off towards the magnificent Tronçais forest, one of the most beautiful oak forests in Europe. Along the way, I enjoyed the verdant landscapes passing before my eyes, before arriving at the Saint-Bonnet-Tronçais pond.

The sun was shining, and the place exuded a soothing serenity. I settled down on the banks of the pond, where I stayed for a good hour, simply enjoying the surrounding calm. Migratory birds flew back and forth over the water, offering a natural and calming spectacle, perfect for recharging. A suspended moment, far from the hustle and bustle, where nature reclaims its domain.

Charroux, one of the most beautiful villages in France

Charroux, classified among the “Most Beautiful Villages of France”, is famous for its exceptional heritage and cobbled streets.

From the moment I arrived, the charm worked instantly: its cobbled streets, its houses of golden stone and its ivy-covered facades give this village a unique character. You feel transported to another era.

While strolling, I came across numerous artisan workshops and small local shops. The mustard from Charroux, famous for its authentic flavor, caught my eye. A tasting was a must, and I left with a jar to extend the taste experience at home.

I continue my visit with the Church of Saint John the Baptist, in the heart of the village. Looking up, I admire the bell gable, typical of Auvergne architecture. Further on, the Clock Tower, a vestige of the old fortifications, recalls Charroux’s medieval past.

It’s an ideal place for a stroll and to soak up the atmosphere of a village with timeless charm. A must-see stop during a getaway to Auvergne.

Charroux (1)

4. An Ascent Towards the Giant of Auvergne: The Puy de Dôme

For my last day of exploration, I decided to visit the Puy de Dôme, one of the most iconic sites in the Auvergne region. Leaving the hotel, the road revealed breathtaking autumnal landscapes. The trees were adorned with vibrant hues, from red to gold, and the morning mist added a romantic atmosphere to the scenery, giving the impression of driving through landscapes reminiscent of Canadian forests.

I stopped for a moment on the Sioule bridge to admire and photograph the Queuille Dam, a true postcard image of the region. This break allowed me to enjoy the tranquility of the moment a little longer before continuing my journey towards the Puy de Dôme.

Arrivée sur le site, je choisis de monter à bord du train panoramique des Dômes, un choix idéal pour profiter de la montée sans effort tout en respectant l’environnement, car ce train à crémaillère est entièrement électrique et utilise plus de la moitié de l’énergie qu’il génère lors de la descente. Le trajet offre une vue imprenable sur les volcans d’Auvergne, malgré la brume qui enveloppe les paysages, ajoutant une atmosphère unique à l’expérience.

At the summit, the mist is thick and the view is unfortunately obscured. However, I enjoy exploring the Temple of Mercury, the largest mountain sanctuary in Roman Gaul, impressive in its size and history. To warm up, I visit the small museum where I watch a fascinating film about the construction of the temple and the formation of the volcano more than 11,000 years ago.

Leaving the museum, I decided to walk back down the famous Chemin des Chèvres (Goat Path). This trail is renowned for its exceptional panoramic views, and I didn’t want to miss the opportunity to capture the beauty of the landscape. As I gradually moved away from the dense mist that enveloped the summit, the outlines of the surrounding volcanoes slowly came into view.

The characteristic grassy dunes of the Puy de Dôme, undulating like a sea of ​​green, add a unique touch to this natural site. I regularly stop to capture these moments, enjoying the soothing silence, disturbed only by the whisper of the wind. This descent on foot is an immersive experience, a timeless moment that fully reconnects me with the majestic nature of the Auvergne.

The descent, which lasts about 1 hour 30 minutes, takes me through a variety of landscapes. The path leads me into a sublime forest where the trees, dressed in their most beautiful autumnal hues, welcome me in an explosion of colors: bright yellows, flamboyant reds and warm oranges.

5. Bringing a little bit of Auvergne home with me

Once I arrived at the parking lot, I resumed my journey towards Clermont-Ferrand. My goal: to bring a little bit of Auvergne home with me by stopping to buy iconic local products.

In the shops, I find what I’m looking for: a generous piece of Saint-Nectaire, that cheese with its subtle flavor and creamy texture that is the pride of the region. I also can’t resist a good portion of aligot, that comforting mixture of mashed potatoes and fresh tome cheese, perfect for a cozy evening in. To finish on a sweet note, I add an apple tart to my basket, a local specialty that promises to end this trip on a delicious note.

These small purchases are a delightful way to extend this trip and share a little bit of this beautiful region with my loved ones.

Laden with my precious culinary treasures, I finally set off again towards Aix-en-Provence. With my head full of memories and my heart full of wonderful discoveries, this stay in the Auvergne region ends on a sweet and soothing note.

Auvergne truly won me over with its authenticity and charm, and I already know that this will not be my last visit to this rich and welcoming region.

Create new memories for yourself every day!

Written by Deborah Marini

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